It is starting to get fun now. I got a trigger guard from Muzzleloader Builder Supply. It is just too thin. It would work fine on a normal rifle, but not not quite on on this monster. So in this video I get started on making one from 1/8 inch brass bar stock. It ended up being a bit tougher than I though to bend a piece of brass that size. It all works out in the end. - Bill Raby
Step into the classroom as Mike Brooks and Wayne Estes teach students how to assemble their own Kibler Longrifle Kits.
Step into the classroom as Mike Brooks and Wayne Estes teach students how to assemble their own Kibler Longrifle Kits. In this video, we follow along as Wayne Estes shows a student how to fire blue the metal hardware for their Kibler Southern Mountain Rifle Muzzleloader kit
It is very exciting to see Greg Murry’s book in the flesh AND being featured in ‘Garden and Gun” Magazine. It’s not every day that muzzleloaders appear in such a popular publication.
In this video, we step into the classroom as Mike Brooks and Wayne Estes teach students how to assemble their own Kibler Longrifle Kits.
Bill Raby is back, in this episode follow along as he makes a side plate to fit his custom flintlock 4 bore rifle.
Homemade history on youtube has been working on building his own “rifling machine” for making muzzleloading barrels.
We’re finally ready to do our final assembly on this Traditions St. Louis Hawken Kit. We’ve got all of our parts treated, our stock is ready to go, and it’s time to see what it looks like all together!
With our hardware finished, we’re ready to move onto finishing out stock. In the previous parts of this series, we’ve done a lot to this stock to make it fit and feel right, but the stain and oiling is going to be the most dramatic change, so buckle up and let’s get to it.
Next on our list here is bluing the barrel, barrel rib, tang, and any other “white” iron pieces like screwheads. First though we are going to soak a cotton ball in some rubbing alcohol and wipe down all the pieces we want to blue. This is going to clean off any dust or dirt from the shop, but also remove any skin oils or other oils that may be on the parts to give us our best shot at an even blued finish.